Wandering the streets after sundown in 1979, the Colombian author managed to find a taciturn tavern that served “a strange coffee with salt and some boiled eggs that smelled of flowers at dawn” but little else.
Nearly four decades later, Márquez wouldn’t know where to start.
1. Take a heritage walk
The Hanoi Opera House, erected by the French colonial administration between 1901 and 1911.
CHRISTOPHE ARCHAMBAULT/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Even the city’s most historic places feel as though they’re pulsing with new life come sundown.
Every evening, the storied Hoan Kiem Lake — the spiritual and geographic centerpiece of Hanoi — attracts people of all ages who come in search of a breath of fresh air and an endless range of activities — from walking to jogging, aerobics, tai chi and daydreaming.
It’s especially pleasant on weekend evenings, when the otherwise ungovernable traffic is banned from the area, creating a wonderful, laid-back festival vibe all around the ever-enchanting lake.
After a short lakeside stroll, you can head east from the south end of Hoan Kiem to the Hanoi Opera House, which hosts regular performances by Vietnam’s National Symphony Orchestra, as well as a twice-weekly modern dance show called Lang Toi (My Village).
This visually stunning production blends contemporary cirque — think acrobats, contortionists and jugglers — with traditional Vietnamese music and themes.
2. Get cultured
Inside Manzi art café and bar.
Early evening is also the best time to dive into Hanoi’s vibrant contemporary arts scene.
The website aims to list every exhibition opening, art installation and cultural performance in Hanoi, making it a valuable resource for curious travelers.
“If you are into visual arts and want to learn about the contemporary art in Vietnam, the must-visit destination is Manzi art café,” advises Mien.
Situated in a beautiful old villa on one of Hanoi’s most tranquil streets, Manzi also happens to be a great spot to enjoy a glass of wine.
3. Binge on street food
Sit down for papaya salad with beef in Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Even Barack Obama couldn’t resist the appeal of Hanoi’s street food.
You could follow their footsteps to Bun Cha Hoang Lien cafe and order the Obama Combo, which includes a serving of bun cha, seafood spring roll and a bottle of Hanoi Beer for a princely $4.
But, whisper it. Bun cha is really a lunchtime dish.
For dinner, Tracey Lister, the Australian author of “Vietnamese Street Food,” advises travelers to wander the frenetic but fascinating Old Quarter — a centuries-old district dedicated to craft, trade and, nowadays, tourism — to seek out the most popular vendors and dive in:
“The Old Quarter morphs into a different being at night. It’s a good time to eat on the street too, as the city slows down a notch — not too much, just enough to enjoy a breeze blowing through the laneways.”
4. Tap into local beer
Vietnamese flavors at the Standing Bar.
From Standing Bar
Conveniently enough, the Old Quarter is also the perfect place to drink a glass (or two) of bia hoi.
Often consumed streetside from tiny plastic stools, the Hanoi proletariat’s beer of choice will set you back as little as 25 cents a draft.
In the evening, young travelers gravitate to what’s known as Bia Hoi Corner, to trade travel stories over cheap eats and beer.
Tracey Lister, ‘Vietnamese Street Food’
But for a more local (read: less touristy) experience, and far superior grub, head for 1A Duong Thanh Street on the western side of the Old Quarter — about a 10-minute walk from Bia Hoi Corner.
Bia hoi is an easy, and ubiquitous, option if you’re simply looking to cool off with a light lager.
And for those seeking high-quality, craft beers? We’d recommend making a beeline for the Standing Bar.
The city’s first dedicated taproom overlooks the tranquil waters of Truc Bach Lake and gets creative with its recipes.
“We have something for everyone — pale ales, IPAs, pilsners, stouts, ciders, you name it,” Huong Anh, the Hanoi-born manager, tells CNN Travel.
“What people love is that they’re all brewed here in Vietnam and many of the beers use local ingredients, from jasmine and coffee to cashew and chocolate.”
Bia Hoi Corner, intersection of Luong Ngoc Quyen, Ta Hien and Dinh Liet Streets, Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam. The area closes at 2 a.m.
Made fresh daily, bia hoi is a popular type of Vietnamese draft beer. The cost? Less than 25 cents a glass.
5. Catch a show
Hanoi Rock City’s Red Room.
From Hanoi Rock City
The longest-running live act in town might still be found at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater, where a traditional Vietnamese orchestra accompanies a short puppet show.
Based on a tradition that traces its roots back to the 11th century, the short, nightly shows relate classic Vietnamese folk tales and legends.
But for more contemporary sounds, Hanoi Rock City lures music lovers with its fresh, eclectic performances.
“We have always hosted a diverse range of acts in our Red Room and in the courtyard — folk, reggae, jazz, indie, grunge, hardcore … you name it,” co-founder Duc Anh tells CNN Travel. “We just want to showcase great music in Hanoi.”
6. Savor a nightcap
Ne bar brings the energy.
In the Old Quarter — particularly along Ta Hien Street, Bao Khanh and Luong Ngoc Quyen Streets — there’s no shortage of watering holes that cater to those looking for good-value beer and mixed drinks.
When it comes to “drinks with a twist,” the new star of the Hanoi scene is Nê cocktail bar, located on a 24-hour food street that runs along the western edge of the Old Quarter.
Opened in early 2017, Nê pours classic cocktails, such as negronis and whisky sours. But when in Hanoi, why not ask one of the young mixologists to conjure up a more imaginative potation?
“Our concept is simple: We play jazz music and make cocktails with local flavors,” says owner Pham Tien Tiep, who in 2012 devised his award-winning pho-inspired cocktail in honor of Vietnam’s beloved noodle soup.
“Star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, fresh coriander, lime … Everything that goes into a bowl of pho is in this cocktail — except the beef and noodles!”
Meanwhile, an unfussy nightcap, say a single malt or a glass of wine, is easy enough to find at one of the city’s stalwart drinking institutions.
Tadioto, a stone’s throw from the Opera House in Hoan Kiem district, is a laid-back bar and eatery owned by Vietnamese-American author Nguyen Qui Duc and frequented by many of the city’s local artists, writers and musicians.
7. Dance ’til dawn
The dancing room at Savage.
Throughout the year, international artists perform alongside stellar local acts like Quan, Min8, TrungD,= and Tri Minh.
“We wanted to create something special and unique for the Hanoi community,” music director Ouissam Mokretar tells CNN Travel.
“So we have an intimate ‘club within the club’ called the Red Cube, a lounge area with its own DJ, and an upstairs terrace, where you can just chill with friends.”
And should you successfully dance your way through the night, well, West Lake happens to be the best place to watch the sun rise, too, if not smell flowers at dawn.